Roadtrip to
Valle De Guadalupe
A guide from Los Angeles to Baja
Hello and welcome - First off, I wanted to say thank you to everyone who is reading this! I have always cared a great deal about what I see, eat and do while traveling. After a decade of doing so, I have found no single source on the internet that has truly given authentic information surrounding a destination. I've decided to create a space where I can share my experiences and hopefully fill that void… the good, the bad, the ugly… There will be “better paella spots” and “far superior beaches” but this is the essence of travel… getting out and living your own practice. This site is intended to be a starting point for your own journey. This notion is particularly one of my favorite bits about being a nomad. I have always found that chatting up locals is the single best way to discover genuine experiences - whether that be in the form of savoring a taco, the atmosphere of where you’re enjoying a drink (in a bar that you would bring your friends to) or simply learning about a culture through the eyes of someone that has truly lived it. I hope you enjoy as I ramble on, feed your head!Road trip through Baja
Get in your car and drive to Baja.
Like myself, you are probably looking to get away during this covid madness and the quick escape to visit our southern neighbor is the perfect fix. My passport is expiring in a month and I was getting pretty restless to cross a border once more before my renewal arrives, in god knows how long. Whatever you’re after - romance, adventure, culinary feat, surf trip, pharmacy escapade - turned strip club tour - Baja does it, and does it well. First off, I want to say that I have never encountered any dangers in Mexico and have found it to be very safe. There is a global idea that being respectful, following rules and looking out for yourself + loved ones generally has positive outcomes. Carry this with you and you will be fine. With that being said, if you have reservations about being kidnapped, taken to jail or whatever irrational information the media has thrown at you, do your best to leave that in your past.
The people of Mexico are cordial, appreciative of your visit and beautiful. This post is not intended for a debate on the state of corrupted police forces. This particular jaunt south was to explore Valle De Guadalupe (Mexico's wine country and version of Napa Valley), which in my opinion, is one of the most underrated regions in North America, and its wildly convenient to get to. At just 3.5 hours door to door from LA, we set out on a Monday morning with hopes to avoid weekend crowds at the wineries and border wait times on the return. The port of entry closest to southern California is San Ysidro. There are generally no humans here, no one hassling you about where you’re going or what you’re doing, just a few lanes and dozens of security cameras staring back at you… taking photos of you and your plates on the way in. It’s wild to see the juxtaposition of what a thin border on the same continent can expose. Immediately once you arrive in Mexico, everything is contrasting.
Once you veer out of Tijuana, lookout for the Highway 1D toll road (make sure to bring about $10 in 1’s for your tolls along the way there and back). This is Mexico’s PCH and its absolutely stunning, do not take the inland1. You’ll pass through Rosarito, Las Gavioatas, Puerto Nuevo, and La Mision amongst dozens of other small coastal towns. You’ll crink your neck at every swooping turn where the pacific shimmers in the Baja sun, and the views rival that of Big Sur. There are dozens of surf spots, airbnbs (with infinity pools at a fraction of a price of what you’d pay stateside) and Fruteros adorning their produce along the road.
If you’re in the mood for lobster, stopping in the seafood village of Puerto Nuevo is a good idea. Villa Ortega’s is a classic establishment where you can enjoy a whole lobster, rice, beans, flour tortilla and a beer for around $20, all while gazing out at the sea.
This particular time we were headed to Ensenada for tacos before we entered the Valle, which I highly recommend. Once you’re in the Valle, you’re basically in, so this is a good opportunity to enjoy some ocean views, street food and markets before you enter the gastronomical world that Valle de Guadalupe offers. Check out the list below for my favorite lunch spots in Ensenada.
Ensenada for lunch
Taqueria El Trailero
One of my favorite taco spots on earth. Everything on the menu is fantastic, but standouts are the adobada (regional name for al pastor), carne asada and the pescado. If you’re a fan of flour over corn tortillas, just ask and they’ll sort you out.
Tacos Fenix
Ensenada is said to have invented the fish taco and Ensenadans are obsessed with them. There are two things on the menu, fish and shrimp tacos. At 85 cents for the fish, and $1 for the shrimp, there isn’t a better deal on earth. Pile on their salsas, cabbage, pickled onions and crema. Tacos Fenix is the best fish taco you can eat.
La Guerrerense
A mariscos street cart that serves everything from the sea, ranging from the local favorite - chocolate clam, to scallops to uni. They are famous for their tostadas and ceviches, which consist of high quality sashimi grade seafood that will run you $3 -$5 for the most elaborate dishes. Truly masterpieces… The ingredients are local to Baja and everything is so fresh. This place is classic, been around since the 60’s and has been praised by locals and tourists alike. Bourdain approved. Go.
More Spots
Taqueria la Joya- The majority of the staff at the wineries and restaurants in the Valle are from Ensenada. Each local I met repeatedly stressed to me that this is their favorite taco spot, it’s two doors down from El Trailero so make sure to do a bang-bang.
El Guero Mariscos - I didn’t get to try this cart, but it’s the stand beside La Guerrerense and had a long line of locals. Let me know if you try.
El Paisa - Perfectly charred carne asada tacos. Belly up, brush off your Spanish and speak up. Even better at 2am
Santos en el Pacifico - a hip dive bar with live music, cheap drinks and a local crowd. Come in for a cold beer and a mezcal
Breve Cafe - Walk up coffee window serving fresh ground Mexican beans. Good spot for java to juice up after your fill of tacos.
Once you’ve had enough time of eating and exploring Ensenada, head back up north on highway 1 until you reach highway 3, the entrance to Valle De Guadalupe.
A little blurb on the Valle - VDG is the "Napa Valley of Mexico", but without the pretension, which makes it so appealing and explains why it's steadily up and coming. It sits at 1000ft and has the same microclimate as the Mediterranean, which is suitable to produce wine and amazing vegetables + agriculture. It has been going through a steady boom in recent years, with eco-friendly resorts popping up left and right along with fine dining restaurants that offer tasting menus, making the Valle a gastronomic paradise. With it’s sun-drenched, vine covered mountains, chefs are making some of the best food on earth. With an emphasis on cooking over live fire, smoking and using just-picked vegetables (from farms that most of the restaurants have on site)… all at the fraction of a price that you would find in the U.S or E.U.
Staying in the Valle
Depending on what you're into, you have a few options for where and how to stay.
You could holiday on the coast for a day to relax, then head in.
Drive to and from the beach each day, if you’re not a big drinker.
Stay in the Valle full time.
I recommend staying in the valle, if you're looking to eat and drink seriously. Places range for all thicknesses of wallets. There's plenty of cheap airbnb’s, middle priced eco-resorts, or full-on baller, Gwenyth Paltrow goop style joints. We stayed at Hotel Contemplacion, which I highly recommend and was about $115 usd/night. The hotel is situated in the center of the valley, it is entirely eco-friendly (septic tanks, no plastic use, sustainable etc), has amazing views, delicious free daily breakfast (pancakes are mental), boasts incredible views and has an awesome restaurant - Salvia Y Blanco on site.
Other places to stay - Trailer airbnb, Bubble airbnb, Casa Frida Airbnb, Encuentro, Bruma
Over the next day or two or 6, stop by a number of the places below for a hell of a time
Restaurants in Valle De Guadalupe
Finca Altozano
One of my favorite spots - come here for lunch or dinner, you could spend hours here. They have their own vegetable garden, vineyard, animal farm (you can chill with the goats, pigs, sheep etc.) tortilla factory, food truck, coffee bar, tasting room and bakery.
Standouts are the tuna tostadas, octopus ceviche, bean/cheese/guac tacos, wood fired mushrooms and the beef chorizo. Drink wine that is all made locally and you have yourself a meal for the books.
Fauna
Fauna is a restaurant on the property that is Bruma. Bruma is the tip of the umbrella, where they host their own winery, villa, mini eco hotel, biking path, market etc. Fauna is the chic queen restaurant on the property and I can’t say enough good things about it. Incredible, adventurous food from a young chef that is on the rise, with a perfect vibe and ambience to enjoy it in. The entire property is mental, from the architecture to the food; it is deeply connected to the land. If you got the coin, stay on site, if not, come for a meal that is very affordable.
They boast a wine garden that offers brunch, and a stunning restaurant that I recommend for dinner. You can order al a carte, or go with the tasting menu. ABSOLUTELY go with the tasting menu, and ask to sit with Choy! He will make your meal an insane experience. I can whole-heartedly say that this is the best, bang for your buck meal i’ve ever had. We went for the “small” tasting menu that was $40(!) and it left us absolutely stuffed. All pics below, everything was a standout.
Communal outdoor table
Tequila grapefruit chili liquor
Abalone with agua chile, pumpkin seed
Yellowtail ceviche with oxaxan chili mayo and charred veggies
Pink oyster mushroom sope with martajada salsa
Oaxcan empanada filled w hummus, chili meco sauce
Smoked broccoli w broccoli purée, chilitepin chili oil black sesame lemon zest
Smoked, confit then Charred pork with sourkraut green tomatoes avocado and Serrano chili
Blue corn tortillas
Pork Taco
Charred Lamb w chilhuacle chili
Charred cabbage with cabbage purée and sour cream
Lamb Taco
Ocho
Brownie with pastry cream, crunchy chocolate and banana ice cream
Deckmans
Beautiful, entirely sustainable, rustic eatery with an outdoor kitchen from Michelin stared chef, Drew Deckman. It's a great setting for dinner and wine. Everything they serve is grown on site or is taken in from local purveyors from Baja… from the salt to the olive oil to their honey.
Standouts are the grilled octopus with labneh, Baja oysters with shiso mignonette, lettuces from the garden with mustard caviar and grilled bread + the ribeye Sonora with pureed cabbage.
La Cocina De Doña Esthela
This place feels like an Abueltia's house, in the best way. There's always a wait, so come early. Esthela Bueno wakes up every day at 3 in the morning to prepare her most famous dish -Borrego tatemado + consume in her clay oven. Everything here is homemade from the cheese to the tortillas. She is also know for her elote pancakes, and machaca with eggs. A perfect breakfast after a day + night of drinking.
More Spots
Corazon De Tierra - Didn’t make it here, but will next time. Daily tasting menus - a staple in the scene.
Animalón - Dine under a 200-year old oak tree on sprawled out tables. A modern vision of Mexican wine country cuisine. Famous for barbacoa and sea bass.
Taqueria La Principal - Once you’re all fancied out, hit up this taqueria for Baja style tacos. They serve the classics… quesatacos, mulitas and tortas.
Ochentos - Wood fired pizza that’s open late if you pass out and don’t make it to dinner.
Wineries
Vena Cava
This was my favorite winery we went to. If you’re a fan of natural wines, head here as they produce some of the valley’s best. The head winemaker Phil was a sailor prior to producing wine. You can feel Phil’s past life as you walk around the property. He has re-purposed old fishing boats into functioning aspects of his boutique winery, like the roof of the tasting room. Standouts (that we brought home bottles of) are the natural orange ambar and the natural Sauvignon blanc. If you’re having a tasting, hopefully Eric is working, as he is extremely knowledgeable and takes great pride in his job. Another cool fact about the winery is that they produced the house wine for cosme NYC, one of chef Enrique Olvera’s restaurants (famous chef of Mexico City’s Pujol). If you need a bite in between tasting vinos, Troika, an excellent food truck is on site.
Cuatro Cuatros
The Ultimate vibe. Come here for sunset or for lunch on the way in or out of the valley as it's at the entrance of wine country above the ocean. This space has it all, psycho-beautiful ocean views, delicious food, glamping and incredible ambience with a lively crowd. Absolutely make a stop here on your visit… home of the best toilet on earth.
Pijoan Winery
This one was the most special, I highly recommend visiting and purchasing wine from this family owned vineyard. A quick story; we rocked up to Pijoan looking to have a taste, but unfortunately they were closed… An employee greeted us at the gate and we inquired if we could just come in to purchase a specific bottle of natural rosé that I had seen on Instagram. After we walk in, Silvana, (the daughter of the head winemaker) greeted us so warmly, and invited us into the production room to meet her father Pau and to taste their wines straight out of the barrels. We got to taste all of the next years vintages while they were hazy and not quite finished which was super cool… Pau was so excited and proud of his wine, it was truly an amazing experience. Their wines and labeling are super interesting and unique. I’ve never enjoyed California Chardonnays, but their production of chard was amazing. Think cold guava, passion fruit and stone fruit juice. Bonus is that they sell unique salsas that are made in the region; bring some of those home as well.
More Spots
Decantos Vinicola - This is an expansive property that makes for a nice place to relax and enjoy a great view, with some wine in hand. The vino wasn’t my favorite, but on your wine tour, it’s nice to see as many places as possible. Stop here mid-day when you want a little break to sit and enjoy the sun.
Monte Xanic - The OG’s of the valley. They’ve been around since 1987 and produce 50,000 cases a year. They offer a large variety of wine to choose from.
Casa Frida - An airbnb complex, tequila + wine tasting room and restaurant with a nice terrace. As you may have guessed, this is a Frida Kahlo themed space. Cool spot to check out.
Tres Mujeres - A small boutique winery that is owned and operated by three women. Excellent food on site as well.
Enjoy this wonderful place and support the small communities!
Quick Tips
Bring cash in 1’s for the toll roads
Make as many reservations as you can
Bring a jacket and a variety of clothes, as the Valle gets hot in the day and cold at night
Fill up for gas in San Diego
Register for Sentri lane if you can, because the line to enter the US is always a pain without it
Check on border times, you can always enter at Tecate for a shorter line
Most U.S auto insurances will not cover your vehicle once you cross the border. Check out Baja Bound for reliable insurance that you can purchase for the amount of days you are away.
If you plan on drinking a lot, it’s a good idea to hire a driver, as Uber/Lyft’s reliance can vary. They are inexpensive and reliable if you want to get hammered and not stress at all. Give my boy Armando a shout on WhatsApp +52 646 101 3426. His rates are usually $65 for the full day if he uses your car, around $100 if he uses his ($32 for a half day).
For sake of the short attention spanned and for screen shot purposes, here is a refined list of the spots mentioned in this guide.
Ensenada -Villa Ortega, Taqueria El Trailero, Taqueria la Joya, La Guerrerense, El Guero Mariscos, Tacos Fenix, El Paisa, Santos en el Pacifico, Breve Cafe
Valle
Restaurants in the Valle- Finca Altozano, Deckmans, Fauna, La Cocina De Doña Esthela, Corazon De Tierra, Animalón, Taqueria La Principal, Ochentos
Wineries - Vena Cava, Pijoan, Cuatro Cuatros, Decantos Vinicola, Monte Xanic, Tres Mujeres
Places to stay:
Hotel Contemplacion, Bruma, Enquentro, Trailer airbnb, Casa Frida Airbnb, Bubble airbnb
Gracias
- Z
@feedyourhead.la